In 2012, North Park’s Lafayette Hotel underwent a $6 million renovation and restoration that modernized its environs without wiping away its historic landmark charm. Many lodgings undergo such makeovers. It’s an essential component to achieving longevity, particularly with one-of-a-kind properties. But few would have expected the phenomenal success the Lafayette’s rebrand and improvements would bring. It is the venue of choice for most visitors to North Park, but there’s more to this spot’s triumphs than additional heads in beds. Locals are flocking to the Lafayette Hotel, Swim Club & Bungalows as well… and part of that has to do with the property’s wide-ranging incorporation of local craft beer.
Particularly innovative and fun are Suds Social Pool Parties, which started with Coronado Brewing Company debuting its canned offerings at a pool party last year. This year’s slate of sudsy pool fetes (SPF, get it) kicked off last month with Mother Earth Brew Co. and will continue with 32 North Brewing (“dad bod”-themed on June 18), Novo Brazil Brewing (July 23), the return of Coronado Brewing (August 20) and Second Chance Beer Co. (September 17). Other collaborations with local breweries have included St. Patrick’s Day beer-tastings, a fundraiser for a young cancer patient with 32 North, the Rockstar Beer Fest and a multi-course “culinary conspiracy” dinner paired with beers from Mike Hess Brewing.
That conspiratorial affair is far from the only way in which artisanal ales and lagers are worked into the food program at The Lafayette. HOPE 46, the hotel’s three-squares-a-day restaurant features a nicely stocked list, the contents of which are considered during menu composition. That job is handled by Ryan Gilbert, a well-traveled chef whose local experience includes Rancho Valencia Resort and Spa as well as Maderas Golf Club. He’s kept his head down in the kitchen en route to his current position, but not so much that he hasn’t seen the rise of local beer.
The base for the broth in the restaurant’s black mussels and pork-belly appetizer is Saint Archer Blonde Ale. And he also enjoys pairing items from his menu with beers he has on tap. Case in point, HOPE 46’s blackened wahoo tacos with citrus-dressed cabbage and pico de gallo paired with Mike Hess 8 West Orange Honey Wheat. “The beer complements the tacos in a subtle yet effective manner,” says Gilbert. “The crisp, citrus-laden flavor does not overshadow the light flavor of the Ono, but accentuates it with naturally earthy tones, and the fact that the dish has a lighter overall profile plays into the drinkability of the beer.”
Another pairing Gilbert is fond of is Acoustic Ales’ Shake Your Money Maker Brown Ale with his wild boar orecchiette. “The richness of the brown ale holds up well against the acidity of the Bolognese sauce, while the earthy tones accentuate the gamey flavor of the wild boar. The pairing allows the flavor of the dish to heighten the flavor of the beer.” Gilbert saw fit to provide readers the recipe for this dish so they can try making it and pairing it with a variety of beers.
Gilbert is not alone in his embrace of our region’s liquid gold. The staff at The Lafayette continue to conjure craft beer amenities for their lodgers. They are currently working on a beer tour package that will shuttle customers around North Park. With 14 breweries and brewing company tasting rooms in the area, this figures to be quite the value-added, particularly when participants will not only have a comfy bed to come back to, but even more beer and thoughtful cuisine—plus some epic pool parties—to go with it.
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Wild Boar Orecchiette
Yield: 8 servings
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
2 medium yellow onions, finely chopped
4 ribs celery, finely chopped
2 medium carrots, finely chopped
5 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
¼ pound pancetta (or slab bacon, to substitute), ground by butcher or thinly sliced and pulsed in food processor until finely chopped
1 pound wild boar, ground
1 16-ounce can tomato sauce
1 6-ounce can tomato paste
1 cup Mike Hess Brewing Claritas Kolsch
1 cup whole milk
1 cup water
1 tsp fresh thyme leaves
1¼ tsp kosher salt
½ tsp black pepper
1 pound orecchiette pasta
Parmigiano-Reggiano, for garnish
sprouted microgreens, for garnish
Heat the oil in a 6- to 8-quart, heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Add the onion, celery, carrots and garlic, and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the pancetta and boar, stirring to break up any lumps, and cook until the boar is no longer pink, about 6 minutes. Stir in the tomato sauce, tomato paste, beer, milk and water, bring to a simmer and cover. Cook until the sauce has thickened, 1 to 1 ½ hours. Season with salt and pepper and remove from heat.
Fill a large pot two-thirds of the way with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta and cook until al dente, 7 to 9 minutes. Drain the pasta.
To serve, equally divide the pasta into bowls and ladle with the wild boar sauce. Garnish with a pinch of Parmigiano-Reggiano, top with microgreens and serve immediately.
—Recipe courtesy of Ryan Gilbert; Executive Chef; Lafayette Hotel, Swim Club & Bungalows
